Basics of Bezel Setting
Let’s talk Bezel Setting specifically for Cabochons.
This is THE go to setting you will attempt to master as a new smith. When all the variables are straight forward the process can be pretty easy. Before we dive into cabs that are a bit more challenging (Ex. extra large stones, extra small stones, stones with sharp angles, stones that do not have an evenly domed top, poorly cut stones, shapes with sloping points, sea glass or found objects, stones that do not have a flat bottom, stones that have a very high dome), I want to first go over the basics. If you are interested in learning more about how to work with the more challenging materials, be sure to sign up for our Mini Workshop - Next Level Bezel Setting. We offer this class a couple times a year. And of course we would be totally happy to go over this information in a private lesson.
DISCLAIMER: Before I dive into the basics first let me just say that stone setting can be a very personal process (like most of metalsmithing). There are often many ways and tools to accomplish the same goal. The following are simply MY favorite tools and methods after years of practice and teaching.
The PERFECT cabochon: When you are first starting out you need to look for cabochons that look like the one pictured above. Buying stones like this will make the rest of the process much easier.
The BASICS in 12 easy steps
Step 1: Select a cabochon that has a nice gradual domed surface and flat bottom. Round or oval stones will be easier to start with, since they don’t have any sharp points.
Step 2: Next you will want to buy some bezel. I like to have on hand a couple feet of each size so I can easily grab what I need to match the stone.
Use 28 Ga Fine Silver, Dead Soft bezel wire
Select the bezel height appropriate for the stone. It’s always best to have material you can sand away rather than too little.
Source bezel from Rio Grande or from our Shop
Step 3: Wrap the bezel around the stone, making sure that you have enough metal for a snug fit when the bezel is soldered closed. Too tight and you won’t be able to get the stone in. Too loose and your stone will rattle around.
Place your seam on the longest straightest side
Step 4: Position the seam, where the bezel will be soldered together, on the longest straightest edge of the stone. See diagram to the right for example positions. The seam is the most difficult portion of the bezel to set, by placing it on the longest straightest edge you are reducing the amount of effort needed to get the seam set nicely.
Step 5: Solder the seam closed with hard solder. Make sure that there are no gaps in the seam before soldering
Step 6: Use 220 Grit sand paper (on a flat surface) to sand the underside of the bezel before soldering it to the backplate. This will ensure a flat bezel with good contact to the backplate. During this step you can continue to sand the bezel to reduce the height to make it an even better fit for your stone. Ideally the bezel should be 1/3 the height of your stone. Another way to think about it is that you need a couple millimeters of silver above the largest circumference on the stone.
Step 7: Don’t forget to also sand the surface of your backplate that you will be soldering your bezel onto. I recommend 400 Grit paper for this task.
Use a tripod to heat from underneath the backplate.
Step 8: Use a tripod to elevate the piece during soldering. This will allow you to heat from the underside of the backplate, protecting your bezel from melting and focusing your heat on the largest volume of metal. Place hard solder chips on the inside of the bezel ensuring that they touch both the bezel and the backplate. The placement of the solder on the inside of the bezel will hide any solder scaring and make clean up extra easy.
Step 9: Once the bezel is soldered in place, use a Black knife silicone polisher to remove excess solder on the bezel seam and around the base of the bezel.
Step 10: Complete all fabricating and finishing before starting to set the stone. Stone setting should always be the very last task.
Step 11: Prep the bezel. If needed, use a straight burnisher (pictured below left) on the inside of your bezel to straighten out anything that got wonky while you where working on your bezel. You can also use the straight burnisher to push open the bezel walls if your stone doesn’t drop into the setting easily. Gently sand the top of the bezel w/ 600 Grit sandpaper to ensure a clean setting edge.
Straight Burnisher
Brass Bezel Roller/Rocker
Step 12: To successfully set a stone you MUST use a solid setting surface AND controlled and strong movements with the setting tools. During the setting process metal is compressed around the stone. The compression and work hardening of the metal is what holds the stone in place. NO GLUE NEEDED.
First bring the bezel walls IN around your stone. Do this with at horizontal pressure pushing the bezel wall tight to the sides of the stone. Use the Brass Bezel Roller (pictured above right).
Second bring the bezel walls DOWN around the stone. Do this with a vertical pressure coming from above the stone towards the backplate. Use the Brass Bezel Roller for this task too.
At this point your bezel should be pushed fully around the stone without any gaps between the stone and the bezel. Preform any additional final finishing on the bezel, and you are done! Be carful during this step, some stone cannot take the abrasiveness of certain polishing compounds or tools.
I hope you found some of this information helpful. Feel free to drop any questions you have in the comments below. Want to learn basic bezel setting in person? Take our Beginning Metalsmithing for Jewelry class or sign up for a private lesson.
Happy Setting! - Kelly